California

Day one of my employment in the wine industry was the California Wine Fair in March 2010. Vague recollections of, dare I say magnums, of Corbett Canyon White Zin predate this, but that day was the first day of what has turned out to be an incredibly rich and rewarding journey. I had just been hired by Vintage Corks Ltd. who at that time was still entirely focused on California, and I had a chance to taste through pretty much the entire portfolio. It was my first time getting to taste wines like Heitz Martha’s Vineyard. It was a great day.

Since then, every company I’ve worked for has in one way or another had close ties to California. Between work trips and travelling to SF to write exams, at first for the WSET Diploma and now the MW, I’ve had the opportunity to travel relatively frequently to the Golden State. It’s allowed me to explore and get a feel for what is happening there beyond the scope of the companies that I worked for. Through restaurants and retailers, winery visits and recommendations from friends, I’ve tasted quite a few Californian wines, and I’m excited to be working with some well known names and a few you’ve probably never heard of.

There is so much happening in California beyond the big brands that tend to dominate export markets. I hope to showcase a glimpse of some of the amazing things going on there. Stay tuned for wines from Matthiasson, Pax, Enfield Wine Co., Ferdinand Wines, Fine Disregard, and Wilson Foreigner.

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Breakfast of Champions

How does one adequately capture Mac Forbes in words? We were lucky to have had him visit recently. A lightning quick 24 hour stop between gigs in Montreal and SF. He has presence. A serenely wild energy. Is he a legend? Certainly in the making. What comes to mind though is that he is a beatific shit disturber. He is disarmingly transparent. Unquestionably thoughtful, and thought provoking. There is a timelessness to him. A faraway look in his eyes as he talks about connectedness to place, of the indigenous people of Australia - specifically the Yarra Valley - and their knowledge of the land. Their understanding of place. You can see this idea in Mac’s wines. An ethereal transparency. Almost as though you can see the slopes, rows, and soils through the glass. He speaks of different vineyard sites like children. Of working to understand their individuality. Of each requiring a different approach to allow them to shine. Of striving to let them, and the wines produced from them, have their own voice. Of not stifling them with heavy handed winemaking. The discussion of picking decisions based on structure. On acid profile and tannin texture rather than fruit ripeness hangs heavy on peoples minds. Wheels turning. The wines are tasted. Like Mac’s monologue washing over us his wines fill space, one leading to the next. Each distinct, yet clearly part of the song. Roaring silence. A visceral experience. A smouldering tango of ideas, aromas, flavours. One attendee comments that he wishes he could listen to Mac all day. I am fortunate. I have, and I hope to again. Until then we have his wines. Portals in place and time, beckoning, calling, inviting us to remember. To question. To partake.

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